Paklenica National Park is one of Croatia’s treasures! Would you like to hike the Velika Paklenica trail? Following this valley between the cliffs of the Velebit, you climb up a spectacular canyon where river, karstic rock, forest and climbing walls create a unique landscape. We walked this route from entrance no. 1, a route that is both accessible and impressive, ideal for a first discovery of the park.
In this article, we share our experience, our practical tips, our favorites and many photos to help you prepare for your visit.
This opinion is completely independent, based on our experiences. We made our own choices, visited the area anonymously, and paid our bills in full.
Why visit Paklenica National Park?
Is hiking in Paklenica Park worth it? Our opinion:
Yes, this hike is totally worth it. Velika Paklenica is one of Croatia’s most spectacular trails: a rapid immersion into a limestone canyon, where nature and verticality take center stage. What appealed to us was the balance between accessibility (a wide, well-marked trail on the first half) and grandeur (400 m cliffs, streams, water-sculpted boulders, climbers hanging from the wall). Even without going all the way to the Velebit peaks, you’ll have a real outdoor experience. If you’re looking for a varied, wild and accessible hike, you’ll be won over. In our opinion, this is one of the most beautiful places in Dalmatia.
Our favorite moments
The moment we actually entered the gorge, when the walls narrowed and the light changed, is one of our strongest memories. We also loved imagining the climbers on theAnića Kuk Peak, a mythical cliff that gives the place its soul. And, all along the walk, the contrast between the shadows of the forests, the white karst stones and the faint murmur of the water. This magnificent yet accessible hike is a real highlight!
WHERE TO STAY IN Zadar
Our favorites: neighborhoods and hotels
Historical center
Bastion Heritage Hotel – Check photos and availability
Marina de Borik
Hyatt Regency Zadar Hotel – Check photos and availability
On the coast
Hotel Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa Iadera – Check photos and availability
History in brief
Paklenica Park was listed in 1949, making it one of Croatia’s oldest national parks. Its name comes from the word ” paklina “, which refers to the dark resin extracted from black pines and once used to waterproof boats and roofs. The Velika Paklenica valley has long served as a passageway between the Adriatic Sea and the Velebit highlands. During the Second World War, certain caves were used as shelters, then a secret military base was dug into the rock (now open to visitors as an interpretation center). For over 80 years, the site has also been a world-renowned climbing destination, frequented by legendary climbers.
Access: Paklenica National Park, Croatia
Where is the start of the hike through the Velika Paklenica Canyon?
The start of the hike is at entrance no. 1 to Paklenica National Park.
How to get there?
The park is easily accessible, whether you’re traveling by car, bus, plane or even ferry from Italy. Entrance no. 1(Velika Paklenica) is in the village of Starigrad-Paklenica, at the foot of the Velebit massif and just a few minutes from the Adriatic coast.
- The easiest way to reach the park entrance is by car .
Starigrad-Paklenica is reached via the Croatian A1 freeway, then the coastal road.- From Zagreb: 3h drive via A1 freeway (Maslenica exit)
- From Split: 1h45 drive via the A1 freeway
- From Rijeka: 3h drive via coastal road D8 or freeways A6 + A1
- From Zadar: approx. 1h drive
- The roads are in excellent condition and well signposted. Pay parking is available directly at entrance 1.
- By bus: from Zadar, regional buses serve the village of Starigrad-Paklenica in around 45min. For more information on buses from Zadar, click here.
There is no dedicated shuttle bus to reach the start of the hike, so you are advised to bring your own means of transport. The trail can be reached via a narrow asphalt road in Starigrad-Paklenica.
Find out more on the park’s official website, here.
Parking
A large parking lot is available just past the entrance n°1 ticket office.
OUR ADVICE FOR RENTING YOUR CAR AT Croatia
- Compare prices on our preferred platform: DiscoverCars – one of the best rated sites.
- Choose a car that is powerful enough (the roads are steep) but compact (some passages are narrow).
- There is a lot of demand, book it early.
See our tips (coming soon)
Useful tips: duration, schedules, eating…
Best time to visit
Spring (May-June) and early autumn (September) are the periods we recommend: the temperature is mild, the colors vibrant and the crowds moderate. In summer, the sun beats down hard on the canyon, and some narrow sections can be strenuous. In winter, some trails are closed or snow-covered. If you want to take full advantage of the views and cool undergrowth, aim for early morning.
Length of visit and main difficulties
The climb from the Velika Paklenica parking lot takes around 1h30. The trail crosses karstic terrain with canyon zones, which can present difficulties for inexperienced hikers. It’s advisable not to set off alone, and to bring suitable footwear and drinking water. The route is signposted, but there is no compulsory guide service or lockers on site.
- The round-trip hike from Entrance 1 to Refuge Lugarnica is around 10km and took us 2h30 at a steady pace. If you want to take your time, count on 4 hours maximum. Or even 6h with a picnic break.
- If you add a detour to the Manita Peć cave , add 2h.
- The main difficulties we encountered
- a fairly steep ascent for the first half of the route, with stable but uneven pebbles,
- stony paths,
- of course, the occasional risk of falling rocks.
- We recommend wearing good shoes with reliable grip. Avoid smooth soles such as running shoes.
Advice on how to visit
The direction of your visit depends on the route you choose: a simple round trip to Refuge Lugarnica? A detour to the Manita Pec Grotto? A more adventurous loop via the Velebit peaks? There are many possibilities, but in all cases, follow the signs to respect the environment and stay safe.
We recommend checking the itineraries on the park’s website, here, or asking for advice either at the visitor center in Starigrad village, at the entrance to the park’s official campsite, or at Entrance 1 when you buy your tickets.
In any case, if you visit the park in summer, it’s best to start early to avoid the heat and enjoy the gentle scenery.
Visiting with children
We think this hike lends itself well to a family outing, provided you adapt your pace and perhaps also the length of the route. The trail is passable with a baby carrier, but not with a stroller. As mentioned earlier, the main difficulty is the steep climb in the first half of the route. After that, we found the trail passable for children at ease with walking.
Schedules and rates
- The park is open all year round.
- Prices: prices vary according to period.
- For 1 day in the park, expect to pay at least €5 for an adult and €2.5 for a child.
- If you’re travelling by car, you’ll also have to pay between €3 and €5 to park your car.
- Find out more about the different rates here.
Lodging
Depending on what you want, the possibilities are endless:
- it’s possible to sleep directly in the Park, for example at the Ramića Dvori refuge, a restored old farmhouse just a few hours’ walk from entrance 1.
- You could also stay at the official CampingNacionalni park campsite, set along a lovely pebble beach.
- Alternatively, you can stay in one of the hotels located more or less far from the National Park, as we did.
For more information on accommodation in the National Park, click here.
Catering
Although it’s possible to eat in the park, we advise you to take at least one small snack and some water with you. You don’t need to carry too much water – a bottle will suffice, as there are plenty of drinking water points along the route where you can refill it.
- To eat in the park, if you’re not planning a picnic, you’ll find Refuge Lugarnica about 5km from entrance 1.
- Alternatively, before or after your hike, you’ll find several restaurants and cafés in and around the town of Starigrad-Paklenica, close to the park.
Start of the discovery tour: gain a better understanding of the National Park by visiting the Visitor Centre and Museum.
As soon as we arrived at Entrance 1 of Paklenica National Park, we started with a must-see: the visitor center. This modern space, housed in a former bunker beneath the cliffs, gave us an insight into the unique ecosystem of the park we were about to visit. A visit to the Visitor Centre will give you an insight into the park’s karst geology, endemic flora, mountain fauna and local history.
We discovered, for example, the evolution of the Velebit Massif in local habits and customs. There’s also fascinating information on the local flora and fauna, not to mention a captivating discovery of the region’s flagship sport: rock climbing. What’s more, we loved the immersive, interactive museography of the site, which will appeal to hikers of all ages!
You’ll also discover Paklenica’s underground bunkers, built under the Yugoslav regime in the 1950s. They bear witness to the country’s turbulent history and served as a strategic refuge from the threats of the time. We highly recommend spending an hour there before or after your hike.
First steps on the trail: observation of Paklenica’s flora and fauna
We then took the trail, walking along the stream which appears intermittently along the way. Note that while most of the trail is flat, there is an initial steep climb, but it’s the only one! Climb it at your own pace, bearing in mind that it will be almost the only effort of the walk.
From the very first meters, we were charmed by the diversity of the vegetation, and enjoyed observing the different species of trees and mountain flowers. And with good reason: over 1,000 plant species, 79 of which are endemic (i.e. growing only in the park or in the Velebit massif), have been recorded in Paklenica. We also learned that vast forests of trees over 200 years old grow out of sight, hidden behind mountain slopes. Within a relatively small area of the National Park, there are 8 types of forest that have developed due to differences in soil, relief and the influence of 3 different climates: Mediterranean, continental and alpine. These include oak, black pine and beech.
As for the wildlife, keep your eyes and ears open! We’ve learned that the Park is home to no less than 59 species of mammals, 25 species of reptiles, 260 species of birds, 6 species of amphibians, 90 species of butterflies and 35 species of jumping spiders! Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to come across a few during your adventure!
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Optional detour to discover the Manita Peć Cave
If you have time and a little motivation, we suggest you make the detour to discover the Manita Peć Cave. This optional tour will take you 570 m above sea level. The tour will reveal the many secrets of this fascinating underground world.
The cave is packed with speleothems. These differ in shape and formation process. The most common types of speleothem you’ll see at Manita Pec are stalactites, stalagmites, columns and limestone flows. Funnily enough, some speleothems take their name from their shape or the object they resemble, such as the Helmet, the Organ or the Witch… You’ll also discover 2 species of bat and 52 species of invertebrate.
Unfortunately, we weren’t able to visit the cave as it was closed on the day of our visit, but here’s some practical information:
- The climb takes about 40 minutes from the sign on the path and 1.5 hours from the parking lot.
- The temperature in the cave is 10°C all year round, so we recommend you bring suitable clothing for the visit.
- The tour lasts 30 minutes and is accompanied by a guide. A cash fee is charged.
- The cave is not open every day, so check the opening hours before your visit here.
Walk through the Velika Paklenica Gorge and see the Anića Kuk peak
We then entered the most emblematic part of the park: the Velika Paklenica Gorge. Some 14 km long, they cut 500 m into the mountain, with impressive vertical walls in some places.
This spectacular landscape is the result of millions of years of karst erosion. Water has slowly sculpted the limestone, carving out underground galleries, caves and canyons before opening up to the open air in this monumental gorge. As you make your way between the cliffs and the river, some of which are very narrow, you’ll discover the “Grand Canyon of the Adriatic”.
Look up and you won’t miss theAnića Kuk peak. It dominates the area and attracts climbers from all over the world with its 100 climbing routes. If you look carefully, you may even spot a climber climbing the wall, which is legendary in the region. Enthusiasts from all over the world have been coming here to defy gravity for over 80 years.
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A well-deserved break at the Lugarnica mountain hut
After this thrilling hike, you might like to take a welcome break at the Lugarnica Mountain Refuge. Located at the heart of the trail, this little haven welcomes you for a coffee, a juice or an invigorating meal. We loved the authentic atmosphere here.
A few wooden tables, an unobstructed view of the river, and the sensation of being in the middle of a natural amphitheater. Here you can recharge your batteries before setting off again. You’ll find toilets and free drinking water, as well as cold drinks, coffee, beer, pastries and local produce such as ham, cheese and bean soup.
It’s also a good point from which to assess your fitness: from here, you can plan a leisurely return or extend your walk. In any case, it’s a welcome stopover, whether you’ve packed a picnic or not.
What’s next? Options for continuing the adventure
On our visit, we turned around at point C (shown on the map earlier in this article), which corresponds to Refuge Lugarnica. From here, you have several options. Like us, you can return quietly to Entrance 1 and finish off on the interpretation trail near the visitor center, and/or make the short climb to the Fort Paklaric Lookout (about 20min steep ascent).
If you prefer to keep up the effort, you can continue towards the peaks of the Velebit massif, for example by climbing Vaganski Vrh (1,758 m), the park’s highest peak. This route is more demanding, but offers spectacular views of the Adriatic and the mountainous interior. Paklenica National Park boasts between 150 and 200 km of signposted trails, with itineraries ranging from 1 hour to 2 days, offering a real immersion in the karst landscape of Velebit.
Finally, if you’d like to extend the experience by sleeping in the park, you should know that there is accommodation available: Ramića Dvori, a restored former farmhouse, accessible about 40 min walk after Lugarnica. You can sleep here and enjoy local cuisine, making it an ideal option for a 2-day hike, for example. Find out more here.
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